… the capital and largest city on the island of Corsica, famous as the birthplace of Napoleon Bonaparte. Ajaccio can be pronounced many different ways: uh-JACK-oh, eye-OTCH-ee-oh, etc. Ajaccio is known for its cigars, macaroni, and sardine and coral fishing. We started our day with a walk around town, through the lovely town market, looking at all the beautiful produce, flowers, fish, meat and cheese for sale. It all looked so good, particularly the tomatoes, which haven’t been too tasty onboard.
We stopped at Napoleon’s family’s four-story home, and visited the museum now housed there. Pretty amazing: for someone who seems to be the epitome of Frenchness, Napoleon began life as an Italian, and spoke no French. Legend has it that his attempts at French convulsed Josephine with laughter! He changed both of his names to appear to be more French.
We experienced Corsican entrepreneurship with a visit to three local businesses. Our first stop was a nougat factory; the 85-year-old owner is still hard at work making and selling his products (see below), while his entire family is now also working in the business. We met several of them, as well as some friendly ants who marched along the counter top where the demonstration nougat was being prepared. Neither of us is looking too closely at the candy we bought there, just eating and enjoying … The nougat is made primarily from egg whites which are whipped mercilessly for hours until they become really stiff. Honey and nuts are added, along with various natural flavors – some pretty awful. Myrtle nougat, anyone?
Our second stop was an essential oil distillery, up a steep hill which separated the men from the boys (actually, the less mobile from the rest of us). The owner explained that it takes 1 to 1.5 tons of raw material to make one liter of essential oil. Their oils really did smell good for the most part, although I doubt some of the health claims made.
Last but not least was a winery tour, with a wine tasting, accompanied by bread and cheese. The winery is owned and operated by a woman, one of only 10 women winery owners in Corsica.
The day was extra special because it was Frank’s birthday! To celebrate, we booked a “Chef’s Table” dinner in the kitchen with our friends Lee and Troy Harden. A lovely table is set right in the heart of the kitchen, where all the dinner servers come to pick up food for their tables. The menu varies every time they do the dinner, and the ship’s main chef introduced each course as it was served. The ship’s cellar master, Ingo, chose wines for each course. He also helped us to discreetly dispose of some unwanted goose liver (not pate, just quivery goose liver on toast) so as not to hurt the chef’s feelings. The meal was one we will long remember, and concluded with many of the serving staff singing happy birthday to Frank in Indonesian. Below right, Chef Bernie and Cellar Master Ingo.
One memorable dish was served in its own ice sculpture. Things heated up a little after 8 when the servers began filling the first orders.
A fun time was had by all, and it was a wonderful way to finish a birthday!
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