Saturday, March 30, 2013

… to Garfagnana – well, almost …

… we couldn’t seem to find the right entrance into the hilly little town, and also couldn’t find parking to explore our options on foot, so we ultimately opted to drive away, and stop in Lucca on our way to Firenze instead. We took a fond look backward at our hotel on the hillside, and at Pascoli’s house.

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Also the little cluster of buildings I looked at from our balcony every morning. For the first time since we’ve been here, we saw a shepherdess at work with her dog, tending a flock of sheep by the roadside.

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Around another bend, we were slowed down by an Ape (ah’-pay), a tiny three-wheeled truck, overloaded with sticks. We saw piles of sticks and logs everywhere; I’m not sure if they are used in fireplaces, or for some sort of building.

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Lucca’s becoming somewhat familiar; we know where the ATM machine approved by Bank of America is, and where to get really good hot chocolate. We got another great parking space, and had a quick lunch before heading to Firenze to check into our new hotel, Marriott’s AC Firenze.

We walked to Mia’s apartment, which is only a few blocks away from our hotel. After an apartment tour, we strolled through her neighborhood, across one of the many bridges to the other side of the Arno river, and then towards a restaurant where Mia made reservations for us and two friends. Ponte Vecchio, the “Old Bridge,” was a spectacular sight at night in the lights.

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We stopped to peek inside a church on the way, and because we arrived early, had a quick hot chocolate at a chocolatier next to the restaurant.

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I’brindellone is named for the ceremonial cart used on Easter in Firenze’s pageant. The restaurant is a typical neighborhood restaurant, serving Florentine dishes to locals. We met Mia’s friends, Brad and Valentina, and started our meal with the appetizers everyone there was eating: fried bread dough balls, with proscuitto and a type of cream cheese. The hot dough balls were delicious! The main course was bistecca Fiorentina or Florentine beefsteak, which turns out to be the largest cut of meat I have ever seen served in a restaurant. It is basically a very thick porterhouse steak, served with the bone in. Brad did the carving honors, and we all helped ourselves to contorni, or side dishes, of cannelini beans, salad, stewed zucchini, and fried artichokes, washed down with local Chianti wine. Everything was tasty, and the conversation was sparkling.

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On our walk with Mia back toward her apartment and our hotel, we stopped to look at yet another huge church, preparing for Good Friday services. We were thrilled to get back to the hotel and collapse!

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