… drawn in a sleigh by two burly tobaggan men. A sleigh ride is so Christmasy! We docked in Madeira on a gorgeous warm sunny day, and were whisked up the steep hillside in a gondola, providing a great view of the island below. The slope doesn’t seem to bother the locals; many houses seem to have no visible means of entry, clinging to a patch of ground far from any roads.
Everyone grows something in Madeira. We saw banana plantations, vineyards, flower gardens, vegetable patches and kapok trees with their hanging bunches of fibers on our way up to Monte, the small village at the top of the hill. We had some free time to admire the formal gardens there before boarding a wicker sleigh of our own. And to bolster our courage, we each had a shot of a potent local honey liqueur called Poncha da Madeira.
We sized up the drivers – fairly young and beefy! Perfect! Trust me, you want someone in great shape to control the sled on its way downhill. The drivers each bring their own heavy rope which they attach to the sides of the runners. They give the sleigh a push at the top of the hill – not unlike a bobsled team’s start – and then hop on the back runners, providing extra weight for more speed. They lean to steer the sleigh as it navigates the many twists and sharp turns in the street – and to avoid cars and tourists in the way! Midway through the ride there’s a slow level patch, and the drivers jump off and pull the sleigh until the slope turns down again and they can jump back on.
Our guide said there were no sleighs for three. So Sally and I hopped into the next one and began our wild ride. Although Sally’s eyes are open in the photo taken half-way down, that was a lucky shot! At the bottom of the hill we waited more than half an hour for Frank. They were waiting for a new truck filled with sleighs, which ironically included a three-person sleigh!
The next stop was a scenic overlook at Miradoura Pico dos Barcelos. Back on the bus we rode to the city center for a tasting of fine Madeira wine at Blandy’s winery. In business since 1811, and housed in an old monastery, the winery makes four types of madeira: sweet, medium sweet, dry and medium dry. Mmmmm…. We also learned about the history of cork and how it is harvested; cork is the bark of the tree, and can be safely removed every 11 years or so. It has become an expensive alternative to leather in the making of hats, shoes, wallets, and all sorts of other products, many of which can be found in the shops in Madeira.
We strolled through the municipal gardens – not too many plants in bloom this time of year but charming little Christmas houses – then stopped for a nice outdoor lunch of local delicacies at Apolo Café. We ordered a variety of their “special toasts” – aka in other places as sandwiches on toast! The waiter returned to tell us that the kitchen was new and they wouldn’t be able to make any of the toasts except for tomato or cheese. That made our choice simple.
We headed back to the ship, stopping to browse in a few shopping malls along the way. What a day! Next up … six days at sea!!! We’re ready!
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