… a prosperous, modern Muslim country with an average income of $44,000. The rate of exchange was US$.38 to 1 Omani rial, the first time on this trip the conversion went the other way, with prices nearly tripled in US dollars. Muscat was mostly built after 1970, so almost everything is new. Unlike other cities, there are no skyscrapers – by design. New building is strictly regulated; no buildings can be more than eight stories high, and the only colors permitted are white and cream! The current Sultan, who deposed his father after getting a college education, is revered by the country because he brought prosperity and modernization to the population of 2.5 million. The country is home to about 600,000 foreign workers, and English was widely spoken, at least in Muscat by the mostly-Indian vendors.
Because of the delays and difficulties of our berth in Mumbai, the Captain arranged for us to arrive in Muscat the evening before we were due to dock, giving us an extra evening to spend at the local souq or bazaar. The ship ran a shuttle to Mutrah Souq, and the head start put everyone in a good mood. Here, with Frank’s friend Andy, cozy on the jumpseat in the bus. Visitors to Muscat are greeted by the incense burner, surrounded by old forts, next to an amusement park.
Oman is known for frankincense and myrrh, and the souq was filled with stalls selling incense and burners. Silk scarves, hanging glass lamps, old silver, and the Omani symbol, a short, curved dagger, were everywhere. Mutrah Souq, unlike the bazaar in Istanbul, is very walkable, clean and well laid out, while still feeling like an authentic market, with winding paths and tiny alleys.
We had a blast until promptly at 9 PM, the vendors began a mad rush to close up. As we left the souq for the short ride to the ship, the skies opened and it began to pour, raining steadily for the next few hours – in dry Oman!
The next day we took a hop-on, hop-off bus tour of Muscat. Oman’s coastal area is filled with rocky hills, and the countries who ruled at various times built forts seemingly on every hill. The two large ships in the harbor belong to the Sultan; the smaller ship is just a supply ship for the larger one! We stopped in front of the Sultan’s palace for photos, and drove around one of the large forts; neither were open to tourists. Along the way, we passed many beautiful mosques.
We ended the day back at the souq, and this time explored some of the back alleys. We happened on the street supplying Muslim dresses, many of which were elegant and beautiful.
Oman provided a glimpse into an interesting and unfamiliar world!
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