Saturday, April 1, 2017

… the Rose Red City of Petra …

… one of the seven wonders of the modern world, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The city, carved out of pink sandstone cliffs, is two hours from the port of Aqaba. Built by the Nabataeans around 312 BCE, Petra served as a trading center for the caravans traveling between Egypt and Persia. Taxing the caravans made Petra the richest city in the ancient world. The Roman Empire lost three wars to capture the city, then instead established the tax-free Silk Route, diverting the caravans and eliminating Petra’s economy. The city was absorbed into the Roman Empire around 100 CE, and abandoned after a series of devastating earthquakes. Petra was rediscovered by local Bedouins who began living in the ruins, and hid the city from view for 1100 years. Hearing legends of a lost pink city, a Swiss explorer learned the Bedouin language and dyed his skin to infiltrate the Bedouin community; he revealed the city to Westerners in 1812. The city had been beautified by the Nabataeans in an attempt to lure back caravan traffic; some of these alterations are visible today. The desert setting enhances the site, with the pink sandstone glittering in the sun.

There are several options for entering Petra; walking into the city through the towering cliffs is the most dramatic. Horse-drawn carts are also available, and we split up: Frank walked, I rode. The cart saved my knees, but the indescribably bumpy, jolting ride made me think I needed a mouth-guard! Also a seat belt … Our handsome driver, Mohamed, owns three horses; he completes six round-trips a day, rotating the three horses, and works 6 week contracts. It’s a tough trip for the horses, who slip and slide on the hard stone roadway. Mohamed has tried rubber shoes on his horses, but they wear out almost immediately.

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The entry to the city is breathtaking. Two guards stand watch at the entrance to the path, two kilometers long. At the end, the narrow passage between the cliffs suddenly opens, and the lovely Treasury is in front of you. This is the building you see most often on Petra photos, but Petra is a large city, with many streets, tombs, and civic buildings. Excavations of the site continue, being careful not to disturb the tourists who are a large part of Jordan’s economy. 

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The afternoon sky was magnificent, providing a beautiful frame for the majestic pink sandstone – and highlighting a Bedouin tent on top of the cliffs.

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What a lovely sight!

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